presents the 5th generation of click-jointed flooring in our new
RappLoc click system. This is the latest ingenious glue-free flooring
system. The boards are laid one by one, in exactly the same way as when
the tongues and grooves are glued, without having to connect the short
ends together first. All you need for a perfect result is a saw and
Our laying instructions describe the process
in detail. If one or more boards have to be replaced, the flooring
boards are simply removed and new boards are laid in place again. It
couldn't be simpler!
ALWAYS read the laying instructions that you get with the floor!
first board approx. 8 -10 mm from the wall (for a normal-sized room)
with the tongue towards the wall. Insert distance wedges between the
board and the wall. If the wall is crooked, draw the wall contours on
the first board (diagram 6). Then saw the board to the drawn contours so
that they follow the unevenness of the wall.
that both technically and aesthetically, the floor will look better if
the last board is wider than 50 mm. Therefore, always measure the width
of the room before starting to lay the floor, to ensure that the last
board is wider than 50 mm. If this is not the case, then saw the first
board to achieve a balanced effect.
DIAGRAM 2. At the end of each
row, turn the board around, as shown in the diagram so the groove side
of the lock-strip is towards the wall and measure off.
DIAGRAM 3. The sawn board is then turned around again and laid in place with the sawn end at the end of the row.
have to saw more than 35 mm off the first or last boards, then the
RappLoc tongue cannot be used at the end of the board. This has to be
glued instead, as shown in the diagram. Use a weight during the period
that the glue takes to set.
DIAGRAM 5A + 5B Start the next
row with the sawn board. Lay the length of the board in position and
slide the end of the next board tight in together before angling down
the boards into final position. Hold the ends tightly together during
the angling down phase. The end joints shouldn't be closer to each other
than 500 mm. Insert distance edges at the end of the board. Row after
row is done in the same way. It is important that the first two boards
lie absolutely straight. Check this with a chalk line.
DIAGRAM 6. The last board (and
the first board too, if required) usually has to be sawn along its
length. Lay this board over the next-to-last board, see the diagram, and
draw the contours of the wall onto the board. The board is then sawn
along the lines drawn on it. Remember that there must be a distance to
the wall. (1.5 mm per metre of floor width). If you have to saw off
more than 35 mm, the tongue in the end of the board cannot be used. The
ends have to be glued instead.
DIAGRAM 7. If there is not
enough room to angle in a board, under an architrave or radiator for
example, then do as shown in the diagram. Use a knife or chisel to
remove the locking strip on the lock-tongue. Do this on both the lengths
and ends of the boards that are affected and glue the lock-tongue.
Angle the board as shown in the diagram and draw it backwards into
DIAGRAM 8. To take the boards
apart, do as shown in the diagram. Start from the left, sit on the
subfloor (if possible), lift the row of boards and carefully hit the
board adjacent to the longitudinal joint, so that the boards unlock.
Thereafter, remove the boards by holding them completely parallel and
then sliding them apart at the ends. If the boards are not held
parallel, the ends can be damaged and be difficult to take apart.
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